The KC Cattle Company (kccattlecompany.com), a purveyor of USDA-certiﬁed American wagyu beef located outside Kansas City, was founded in 2016 by Patrick Montgomery, a military veteran. Part of the motivation was to honor his brother-in-law, also a member of the 1st Ranger Battalion, who had been killed in combat. The company employs and mentors veterans—my last steak shipment arrived with a short handwritten thank-you note from a former member of the service—and donates to various veteran nonproﬁts. This is all well and good: One wants to have one’s wagyu and do a bit of virtue signaling as well. But with this stuff, the steak is every bit as good as the sizzle. It’s delicious, with the indulgent richness of wagyu combined with American minerality and texture. In my experience, the stuff isn’t as pretty as some of the others, but I have found I like it at least as much there's an honesty to it, somehow. Food & Wine magazine even recently mentioned the hot dogs among the best they had ever tasted. Pro tip: a 2-pound full blood wagyu ﬂank steak, perhaps my true secret favorite dinner, goes for just $35. It seems like high time to fire up the grill.