It’s been some time since Rambler’s lavish opening at the Hotel Zeppelin—three years to be exact. Since then, the executive chef has changed, as have some of the menu’s flavors, but the cozy, cosmopolitan vibe and creative dishes make Rambler worth revisiting (or trying for the first time).

Executive chef Banks White has seen some travel in his time, having spent six months in Southeast Asia for a culinary tour, and returning frequently to Thailand, the Philippines, Hong Kong, Vietnam and Malaysia. In addition, he studied classic French techniques at the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vt.

His Southeast Asian journeys are on full display in his steelhead trout dish, which comes with Forbidden black rice, bok choy, papaya slaw and pineapple, and coconut Malaysian coconut curry. Each bite seems to give you a different taste of his adventures. If you’re in the mood for something more comforting, the braised beef short ribs with Anson Mills farro verde, root vegetables and young spinach is like a big, warm hug.

Sometimes White will decide to experiment with a new dessert (he makes the desserts too). On this night he debuted a peach cobbler that can effectively destroy any chances of ever enjoying another future peach cobbler again. It’s that good.

This, too, is reflective of his geographical influences, having been born and raised in Texas. With a brown butter finish and delicate treatment of the peaches, the dessert has all the comforts of a classic, and the elevation and polish of someone well-traveled.

If the cobbler isn’t available, don’t worry. The chocolate ganache cake with fresh raspberry coulis and whipped cream will keep you equally happy—or at least rambling for more. 545 POST ST., 415.549.8008