A perfect encapsulation of the Chicago dining zeitgeist of late 2019, Good Fortune is deserving of every drop of its, well, good fortune. It’s cool but not fussy, casual without sacrificing polish, and it serves food that’s at once smart and easygoing (plus really, really tasty). Charles Welch has taken the razzmatazz of what he did so well at Honey’s and cooled it down to just the right temperature for the Logan Square crowd, who are already filling seats on all nights of the week for meals that can skew relaxed evening with friends just as smoothly as a dressy date night.
Welch (Sepia, mk) has devised a seasonal Midwestern menu heavily punctuated with Mediterranean flavors and ingredients. “We’re honed in on what I always wanted my food to be,” Welch says, and the menu does feel innately his. A favorite starter, the halloumi ($12) had just been tweaked ahead of my dinner with friends to include Jupiter and Concord grapes he caramelizes in the wood oven, which add a brightness to the herb-spiked harissa yogurt, aptly paired sunflower seeds and crisply browned cheese. The oven is used generously and well, delivering such marvelous morsels as the pork collar ($24), which is brined, cooked and then roasted to order. Served with shishito peppers, the generous portion comes bathed in jus and is as tender and meaty as you could hope—each forkful is irresistibly good.
To be frank, there wasn’t a dud in the meal, which our charming server ensured was perfectly coursed out (pastas in particular were superb). The perfect ending? Truly decadent chocolate cherry cake ($9). Served with meringue, dark chocolate crémeux and cherry frozen yogurt, it was the final flourish to an extraordinary meal—and cemented Good Fortune’s status as a truly exciting newcomer to the city’s foodie scene. 2528 N. California Ave. | 773.666.5238 goodfortunechicago.com