“We knew we wanted to bring something unique to Houston— better global wines that taste more alive, are free of added chemicals and healthier for the ecosystem,” says Steve Buechner of his Light Years Natural Wine Shop + Bar in Montrose with partner John Glanzman. Buechner rst “saw the light” about a decade ago in France, where natural wine has been around for millennia. Lifelong friends who grew up in Long Island, the duo moved here after working in New York and California— Buechner as an attorney and in the restaurant biz, and Glanzman in the nance and energy industry. Natural wines have no formal rules, but generally are produced organically, using a natural fermentation process with little or no sulfur or ltering. “Less manipulated than conventionally produced wine, natural wine has many bene ts, including expansive avor and value,” says Buechner. A stone's throw from e Menil, their intimate, spare bungalow draws an international crowd and eclectic wine lovers from the neighborhood intrigued to sample “wild and natty” small-batch selections from France, Spain, o -the-grid areas of California and lesser-known regions, including Vermont, Utah and Texas. Wines are available by the glass, bottle and retail, and cheese and charcuterie plates are on o er. (If you're taking a bottle home, they suggest experimenting with untraditional pairings such as a light red wine with a meaty monk sh.) But don't expect to study a wine list. ere isn't a menu online or at the unfussy 200-bottle wine bar. “We like to talk to each guest individually to nd out what varietals and style they like. We'll pour several samples until we get it right,” assures Buechner. Sun.-Sat., noon-midnight, 1304 W. Alabama St., 713.425.6673, lightyearswine.com